Day 34--Missouri Star Quilt Company

Missouri Star Quilt Company

We stayed in Cameron, Missouri, last night because it was the closest city to Hamilton with a motel. And those of you who are quilters know about Hamilton, right? Home of the Missouri Star Quilt Company, a small-town success story.

Inside MSQC

I happened on their website a year or so ago when I was searching for some quilting "must-have" or other, and I signed up for their daily emails because of the really great "deal of the day" they have every day of the year. Those emails peaked my interest in this company, so I looked more closely at their website. I read about how the company began in 2008 as a local quilt shop and how it grew from there to one of the most successful on-line quilting businesses around. I watched some of the YouTube video tutorials posted by this family featuring Jenny, aka Mama Doan, and I loved reading the stories that Jenny posted each day with the daily deal. I was hooked.

Beautiful fabric

When we planned this western adventure and I saw that we were going to be driving very close to Hamilton, Missouri, I told Smoky this was one place I really wanted to see. Today was the day! I wondered what I would find. I've visited quilt shops everywhere we have traveled. Some are good, some are just OK, some are a real disappointment, but rarely have the shops been great. This one was great!

MSQC Mercantile, for reproduction fabrics

Actually, what started as one physical location in Hamilton has now grown to several--the original shop, the warehouse (from which internet orders are shipped), the Mercantile Shop (where reproduction fabrics are available), Penny's Quilt Shop (for solids, chevrons, and marbles, and named after J.C. Penney who opened their 500th store in that location), a Seasonal shop, and a gorgeous new retreat/class center. This last building just opened last fall. We went for a tour of the facility and found a huge room for lectures and sewing, a complete modern kitchen available for participants to use, and rooms, mostly upstairs, to house participants who are attending retreats. This facility is available for quilt clubs who want to plan and hold their own retreats or you can sign up for one of Jenny's retreats. 

Penney's Quilt Shop, for solids, marbles, chevrons 

Obviously these people are doing something right! It was apparent to me when we first went in that Missouri Star Quilt Company employees are focused on the customer. Their service was excellent in all the locations we visited today (and we went to each one except the storeroom). Each shop was bright, full of cheerful colors, and extremely neat and clean. And there were lots and lots of absolutely beautiful, high-quality fabrics. I could easily have spent hours here.

Inside Seasonal Shop

Inside Mercantile Shop

We arrived before 10, not too long after they opened. There were already several customers in the store. By 10:30, the number of customers had grown significantly, and before we left around noon, the main store was full. This is Hamilton, Missouri, folks, where there is one main street and the Missouri Star Quilt Company is the largest employer. Quilters from all over the country were in the store. 

Smoky says the next building they need is a "man cave" for all the spouses who are there with their quilting partners. I asked him what the man cave should provide. Here's what he suggests:

One corner should have comfortable chairs for those people who want to just rest.
One corner should have large screen TVs for sports fans.
One corner should have DVDs of old movies (like John Wayne classics).
And in the last corner classes for learning to repair sewing machines should be held.

These sound like great ideas. Missouri Star, are you listening?

We had lunch at Poppy's Bakery and Cafe just down the street from the quilt shop. Most of the visitors to this lunch place and a small hamburger and ice cream shop next door were people like us who had come to the quilt shop. The food was great!

Statue to Mark Twain

After lunch, I waved goodbye to Missouri Star and Hamilton and we headed for Hannibal, childhood home of Samuel Clements. We said early in this excellent adventure that crossing the Mississippi River was the real beginning of our journey. Now we were back at the Mississippi, and we are considering today to be the end. Sparky and Lucky were happy to get out of the car and have a chance to breathe in some good ole river air. 

Purple martin, most wanted bird

Purple martin condo with 562
apartments, Griggsville, Illinois

Our next stop was the small town of Griggsville, whose claimed to be the purple martin capital of the nation. We've tried for years to entice some martins into houses on our property, and Smoky was hoping to get some tips on how to accomplish this. Plus, he had heard they had a purple martin condo in town.

Griggsville is hot and muggy in the summer, which means lots of mosquitoes. One enterprising resident realized that Griggsville was on the migration route for the purple martin, who was reputed to be able to eat 2000 mosquitoes a day. He converted his antenna factory into a factory for building bird houses and the community placed lots of houses in the area in hopes of convincing the martins to stay for the breeding season. Sadly, we learned that the bird house factory was recently sold and moved to Chicago, leaving Griggsville without one of its main sources of employment. The martin houses, including the condo, remain.

We crossed the Mississippi into Illinois and then followed the Illinois River south for a short while on Highway 100, crossing it at Hardin. From there we followed River Road into Alton, where we'll be staying several nights and visiting with Smoky's mom and other family.

--Shann

Day 33--Dodge City to Cameron, Missouri

Enid's homemade pastries, Boot Hill B&B, Dodge City

Kurt and Enid at their Boot Hill B&B, Dodge City

We said goodbye to Kurt and Enid at Boot Hill B&B today after we enjoyed another wonderful breakfast. The large bowl of fresh fruit that started us off contained strawberries, blueberries, several kinds of melon, kiwi, pineapple, and grapes. 

Kurt promptly brought out pots of hot tea and a plate of Enid's homemade pastries. Today we had turnovers filled with mixed berries and apples and cinnamon roll muffins topped with caramel and icing. Both were wonderful! 

Instead of eggs and bacon today, we opted for oatmeal with cream, pecans and brown sugar. That oatmeal reminded me of the "porridge" we loved so much in Ireland many years ago.

Thanks, Kurt and Enid, for your great hospitality and the wonderful food. We enjoyed your lovely home very much!

On the way out of town, we stopped at the scenic overlook Kurt told us about. Ron had questioned him about how there could be an overlook in an otherwise flat location; Kurt chuckled as he told us what the overlook looked over. A cattle feedlot! Appropriate, I think, in that cattle really brought Dodge City to life.

Sparky & Lucky ride a horse
at Dodge City scenic view

Note to Susie: tell Steve his prediction about Dodge City was not true!

We pointed the Prius east and headed across the rest of Kansas. Our destination for the night was Cameron, Missouri. Before we reentered the larger cities, however, we had one more park to visit: Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve in the Kansas Flint Hills. This area is part of the remaining 4% of natural tallgrass prairie in the United States. 

Milkweed

Butterfly weed and butterfly

This is a truly lovely place. We took a short hike up to a high point that looked out over the prairie in several directions. It's not hard at all to imagine what it might have looked like 250 years ago, when the bison still roamed the area. I was amazed at the number of wildflowers and butterflies in this beautiful grassland. There are a number of springs in the area and rainfall has been good so far this year, so plant life was abundant. We heard lots of birds singing, and we even saw one that was new to us--the dickcissel. This small bird had a beautiful song. We saw a pair that were apparently nesting. You can read more about them at this Wikipedia site.

Scenic view of Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve

Dickcissel

Colored lizard

We also found a flower that was new to us--the catclaw briar or sensitive briar, which has beautiful pink powderpuff style flowers. It looks like it could be an invasive species but it is actually a native to the central United States. It reminded me of the mimosa tree in Mattie's yard (Mattie was our favorite neighbor as I was growing up).

Lower Fox Creek School, Tallgrass Prairie

There are a number of historic buildings on this site. Right now all are under restoration and not open to the public, but you can read about them at the park website. The main house was built by Steven Jones in the 1870s. It is truly a mansion. Because there was lots of sandstone on the property, he added stone walls around the property, about 31 miles of them! The walls are amazing themselves, but you would have to see the other buildings to really appreciate them. I'm hoping we'll be in that part of the country again after the restoration work is done.

Jones mansion, Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve

Jones barn, which has three stories. On the back side of the barn are ramps
that provide access to the top floor!

After the tallgrass prairie, we had more driving in store for us. We both commented that we knew we were getting closer to home today--we have been in much more traffic, there are lots of billboards along the roadsides, and we found a Cracker Barrel! And we enjoyed our dinner there also!! 

I'm headed to bed. Tomorrow is a big day for me. We're stopping at the Missouri Star Quilt Company in Hamilton, Missouri! 

--Shann

Day 32--Dodge City

We're in cowboy country!

Fruit compote at Boot Hill B&B

Homemade pastries at Boot Hill

Charlie's badge

Breakfast this morning at Boot Hill B&B was delicious, and the service provided by Kurt and Enid was top notch. We were seated on the enclosed sun porch, where we started with a fruit compote, followed by a tray of homemade cinnamon rolls and other pastries. They were delicious! After that, Kurt brought us a plate of bacon, eggs scrambled with cheese, and potatoes cooked with herbs (Smoky didn't get the potatoes; his loss!). Hot tea, orange juice and a pitcher of iced water completed our feast.

Charlie Meade, Special Deputy
U.S. Marshall

Toward the end of breakfast, there was a knock at the door. Kurt had hinted last night that someone would be visiting. In walked Dodge City Special Deputy U.S. Marshall Charlie Meade, in full marshall regalia, including spurs on his boots. He spent about an hour telling us about the history of Dodge City, or just Dodge, as the natives call it. We learned about the early cattle drives from Texas, the cowboys who were on those 3-month long drives, and what happened in town when cows and boys arrived. 

Charlie provides walking tours of the city, and he generously offered to provide us with any information we wanted about the town. In case you need info about Dodge City, contact Charlie at 620-225-5165 or 620-253-9231. 

Can-Can dancers

After Charlie left, we drove the short distance to the historic district and visited the Boot Hill Museum, where there were some informative displays on the Native Americans of this area and the early settlers, along with a history of Dodge City. Front Street had been recreated as it had been in the 1870s. Several shops were operating--the Charles Rath & Co. General Store, the Long Branch Saloon, and Beatty and Kelley's Restaurant. Other shops had period furniture and displays. One fascinating one was the State Bank of Dodge City, complete with teller station and vault. 

Fist-fight at Boot Hill

At noon, the street came alive, and a gun fight between some rowdy cowboys, the law, and some bystanders took place before a willing audience. The "cast" did a great job of portraying the scene, and the crowd loved it!

Deputy fires a shot

Everyone gets into the shootout.

At the museum we saw old photos of Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson. Matt Dillon wasn't there, since he didn't really exist, but the town is extremely grateful for Gunsmoke and the millions of dollars of free advertising it brought to Dodge City! The Trail of Fame memorializes these characters, both the ones who lived in Dodge City and the ones who portrayed the characters in Gunsmoke. There are also great statues of a longhorn steer and Wyatt Earp.

Longhorn steer at Boot Hill

Statue of Wyatt Earp

Tonight we returned to Bella Italia for dinner.  Smoky had salmon and shrimp and I had mushroom ravioli. Both were delicately flavored. Wonderful!!

Tomorrow we drive to Cameron, Missouri. 

Goodbye cowboys!

--Shann

Day 31--Alamosa to Dodge City

Southeast Colorado

Today was a travel day. We left Alamosa this morning after breakfast and headed out Highway 160 toward Kansas. We made good time--perhaps it was because of the huge thunderhead behind us almost all the way! To say the least, each time we looked over our shoulders and saw it looming there looking rather ominous, we hurried a little more!

I'm in love with western highways. Those of you who know me well probably remember that I stay away from interstate highways every chance I get because I really don't like all that traffic. Out west, it has been like a breath of fresh air not to have so many cars on the road. Granted drivers get out of patience with slow pokes, but with so little traffic, it is pretty simple for them to just pass on by!

Windmill in field, southeast Colorado

Highway 160 today was quiet and peaceful. We took the "southern" route to Dodge City, rather than the one our GPS preferred. We went to Walsenburg and then down I-25 to Trinidad, where 160 headed east again. We stopped outside the small community of Kim for lunch. We ate in the car parked in an unused side road. While we sat there, at least four cars passed by! After lunch we went near Springfield, Colorado, and shortly afterwards crossed the border into Kansas. Continuing to follow 160, we drove through Ulysses until 160 turned south. We continued east on Highway 144 until it intersected with Highway 56, which took us into Dodge City.

Abandoned buildings, Comanche National Grasslands

We started out the day in San Luis Valley at around 6000+ feet, traveled over a mountain range and down into the valley, and finally ended up in the great plains. Mountains to foothills to plains--it was a dramatic change of scenery and environment in one day. Each was beautiful in its own way, even the areas around the Comanche National Grasslands, where we saw many abandoned buildings and very few signs of active life. Once in Kansas, the fields began to look rich and lush, the farms more prosperous.

Verbena growing by road

We arrived in Dodge City at our B&B, Boot Hill Bed and Breakfast, and were greeted by owner Kurt (his wife Enid was busy cooking). We have already enjoyed Enid's cookies, and we're looking forward to breakfast tomorrow! The home is on Boot Hill, right in the historic district. 

We had dinner tonight at Bella Italia. It was eccezionale! 

Smoky had been looking for this photograph for a while. Today was his lucky day!

Rural mail delivery

Tomorrow exploring the area is on the agenda.

--Shann

Day 30--Great Sand Dunes National Park

Great Sand Dunes, late morning

For some unknown reason, the trip this morning from our motel to the Sand Dunes seemed much shorter. When we were racing the sun last night, it felt as though we would never arrive in time. Today, when we weren't in a hurry, no problem with time!

We discovered, on talking with one of the volunteers manning the desk at the Visitor's Center, that the sunset last night was not a common occurrence. We're still hoping to have a repeat performance tonight, but right now it's too soon to tell.

Medano Creek provides play space for many, young and old

Shallow Medano Creek runs along the base of the dunes, and it provides a great recreation location for those who visit. Many families come here to enjoy water and sand; only a few visitors cross the creek and venture up the dunes. That's what Smoky is doing right now, hiking up the dunes. Even though the sun is still almost directly overhead, he's hoping to get some photos showing the peaks and valleys of the dunes.

We tried to get up to Zapata Falls before lunch to see the view of the valley and dunes, but our little Prius started complaining just a few yards up the road, so we scratched that idea and returned to the picnic area. We'll have dinner at the Sand Dunes Lodge so we'll be ready for sunset.

Dunes taken during hike

On our way to the park this morning, Smoky reminded me that today was our last day in a National Park. We have another a week or so before we get back to Tennessee, but today is the last official park day. It is sad, but I think we are both ready to be home again.

Dunes closeup

Dunes and hikers

Dunes closeup

Just before Smoky set off on his dune hike, we reconnected with our friends Susie and Roger. We had missed them earlier this morning, and they were in the car heading back to Del Norte when Roger spotted our car at the picnic area this afternoon. It was quite a coincidence that they were planning to be at Sand Dunes the same time we were. We started our Western Adventure with them in Yellowstone, and we ended it with them today as well.

Strong wind blows sand on dunes

It is about 7 pm now. We had a tasty dinner (complete with homemade strawberry rhubarb pie and ice cream), and now we're parked near the Visitor's Center at a pull-off, waiting for sunset. The early evening light is casting great shadows on the dunes. The wind is blowing much stronger than last night. Smoky is hoping to catch the effect of the wind on top of the dunes. 

As the sun drops lower in the sky, the light on the dunes is lost. We drive closer to the park entrance, following the light. Soon we're at the same location where we were last night for sunset, and it is becoming more and more evident that tonight's performance will not rival last night's. So with a final shot or two, we pack up and head back for the motel.

Closeup of dunes

Evening light on dunes

Tonight's favorite sunset photo

Tomorrow is a long day of travel. We need to get to Dodge City for our B&B reservations and we lose an hour to the time change, so we may not have a chance to post anything tomorrow.

--Shann

Day 29--Durango to Alamosa and Great Sand Dunes

Treasure Falls

We slept a little later than usual this morning because the drive from Durango to Alamosa was just about 150 miles, and we weren't sure there would be much to distract us along the way. We were driving Highway 160 all the way; by now Highway 160 has become like an old friend!

Between Durango and Pagosa Springs the road was reasonably straight, with nice scenery but nothing to cause us to stop. Then we began to enter the San Juan mountains, and the landscape changed dramatically. This is beautiful western country. There is enough rainfall to support a fair amount of plants, and the hillsides are covered with aspen and pine trees.

Not too far into the mountains, we stopped at a roadside pull-off labeled Treasure Falls. The San Juan National Forest was across the road, so this is a remote, unsettled area. The falls were full with the late spring runoff. A sign at the entrance instructed us to look for the water ouzel, a bird that walks under water! At first I wondered if this was a joke, but Smoky assured me that there really were water ouzels. They apparently dive into the shallow waters of streams and catch insect larvae. We checked out the stream at the base of Treasure Falls, but today we didn't see any water ouzels. I just checked these guys out on Wikipedia and discovered they are also called the American Dipper.

Ground squirrel

Treasure Falls was not without its creatures. We noticed right away that the chipmunks and ground squirrels were very accustomed to begging for handouts from visitors. They came right up to our feet and looked up expectantly! After a few minutes of teasing these critters, a bright blue shape flew in--it was a Steller's jay. This bird's appearance is striking with a beautiful color of blue on its body and a black head and crest with white eye stripes. He was checking out the people who were picnicking, looking for leftovers, I'm sure.

Chipmunk

Not too far up the road from Treasure Falls was an "scenic view" overlook on the opposite side of the road. This provided a 180-degree view of the valley and an eye-level view of Treasure Falls. Really nice.

Steller's jay

Continuing down Highway 160, we began to gain elevation as we drove across Wolf Creek Pass. We noticed a sign announcing the Rio Grande National Forest on the south side of the road. Smoky pulled off at a sign as we crested the top of the mountain and we discovered that we were on the Continental Divide at an elevation of 10,857 feet. This was the highest point we had been so far in our travels.

A narrow, steep Wolf Creek Pass was first constructed back in 1916; today's version is smooth with double lanes, snowslide sheds, and runaway-truck ramps for a safe trip over the mountain. Just on the other side we found Wolf Creek Ski Resort, good reason to keep this pass open all winter!

Once we were out of the mountains, the trip into Alamosa was easy. The land was very flat, with mountains visible all around in the far distance. We checked into the motel to unpack and relax for a few minutes before heading out to Calvillo’s Mexican Restaurant for dinner. On main street in Alamosa, this restaurant got rave reviews for its authentic mexican food, served buffet style. You know what that means! Pile that plate high with little portions of all those yummy Mexican dishes that you've always wanted to try. The price was great--only $10 per person.

Sand dunes in light from setting sun

We enjoyed dinner so much we really had to hustle to get to the Great Sand Dunes by sunset. Smoky is driving speed limit plus a little (thank goodness the roads are flat, straight, and empty!) with one eye on the sun and the other split between the GPS map and the road. OK, that's a bit of an exaggeration, but you get my point. We turned off Highway 160 onto Highway 150 to get to the park, saying that as soon as the sun got to the point when the sky really lights up, we would stop to take some photos, even if we weren't in the park and couldn't see the dunes. Thankfully, we saw the park welcome sign on the right-hand side of the road. Not too far after that was a pull-off, from which we could watch the setting sun light up the dunes. 

Sand dunes with reflected light from sky at sunset

Before the sun got to the horizon, the light on the dunes was already remarkable, with the peaks and curves lit beautifully in the dim light. Smoky said, "Keep watching them. When the sun drops below the horizon, they will pick up color from the sky." He was right. Those dunes became even more remarkable after the sun had set. 

Sky behind us, sunset at Great Sand Dunes

The land here is so flat that we had an almost 360-degree view of the sky at the horizon. We remembered advice from seasoned professional photographers: "Always look behind you. You never know what you're missing if you don't." The clouds all around us were turning magical colors from the setting sun. What an incredible night! After the frenzy of snapping pictures, I just stood by the car and let the glory of this moment wash over me. We are truly blessed.

Smoky had so many great photos from this evening at Great Sand Dunes, I thought I would post several more. Here are some of his favorites:

Tomorrow we return to the Great Sand Dunes National Park to experience it during the day. Our friends Susie and Roger along with their daughter, her husband, and their four children will be there, too. 

--Shann