Natchez Trace Day 3

Sunday, March 19

View of the Natchez Trace from our truck.

We woke early (for us) on Sunday morning at the Springridge RV Park in Clinton, Mississippi, which is just south of Jackson. We had mixed feelings about the upcoming day -- it would be our last day traveling the Natchez Trace, an experience we recommend, especially to those of you who like to escape hectic traffic. Driving down a restricted access road with little traffic and great spots to pull over, wander through woods and along streams, and visit historic locations is something that appeals to us. We would miss the lovely scenery when we left the Trace.

On the other hand, at the end of the day we would be closer to our destination, the hill country in Texas, where hopefully the spring wildflowers would still be blooming.

Walking along a section of the old Trace.

At MM 73.5, the Dean Stand Site, we saw our first blooming trillium, a red erect variety. While walking along a short section of the original trace, we found quite a few other trillium in bloom. By the end of the day, in addition to the trillium, we saw small purple violet, jack-in-the-pulpit (not yet blooming), yellow oxalis, daisy fleabane, Mayapple, blue-eyed grass, tiny blue-eyed grass, and evening primrose. The last flower just listed was found after dark in our campground on Sunday night in Vidalia, Louisiana, just over the river from Natchez.

Back to the Dean Stand Site, on an information board we learned the definition of a stand: "William Dean built a stand (aka inn) back in 1823 near this site on the Natchez Trace, though nothing remains of it today. Unlike modern hotels, most stands were not separate buildings, but just rooms for rent in the proprietor’s house or a place to sleep in the yard, the first “bed and breakfast” establishments, so to speak."

As we have been traveling the Trace, the temperatures have been steadily getting warmer. Just past the Dean Stand Site, I shed my sweatshirt. By afternoon, Smoky had removed his long-sleeved shirt and we both hung our coats and vests in the back of the truck for the duration of the trip.

Driving a section of the old Trace to the Rocky Springs
settlement site.

At MM 54.8, we drove our truck/trailer up a narrow winding road that turned out to be part of the original trace. At the top of the road we found an area that had once been the site of the thriving community of Rocky Springs. Settlement began in 1790; by 1860, over 2800 people called Rocky Springs home. Unfortunately the Civil War, yellow fever, crop insects, and poor land management all contributed to the destruction of this once thriving community. By the 1930s, the last store in the area closed its doors.

Rocky Springs Church, built 1837.

The Rocky Springs Church, built in 1837, still stands at the top of the hill. The present day congregation encourages visitors to step inside. We spent time in the lovely old building and in the cemetery next to the churchyard.

Inside Rocky Springs Church.

Rocky Springs Church cemetery.

Grave marker at Rocky
Springs cemetery.

At MM 41.5, we stopped to see the best remaining example of the old sunken trace. Before we could check it out, however, Smoky discovered a large group of blooming Mayapples.

Mayapple in bloom.

Mayapple closeup.

Walking along the deeply eroded old Trace.

We had learned earlier, while at the Rocky Springs settlement, that what caused the Trace to sink was the loess soil in this area of Mississippi. Loess soil is ice age dust that blew in from the great plains area, settling all over this part of the country. Unfortunately, it had no binding agents in it. It was great for growing crops, but water washed it away. The combination of foot and wagon traffic on the Trace along with rainfall caused the soil to erode over time.

There is still more to report on Trace day 3, so stay tuned.

--Shann