Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Day 22--Monument Valley

We left Moab this morning and traveled south toward Monument Valley down Highway 191, with plans to have lunch in Mexican Hat, Utah at the San Juan Cafe, which was highly recommended by our friends Roger and Susie. "Order the Navajo tacos," they said. We checked the map and figured we could get there by lunch with no problem.

In Blanding, Utah, we stopped at the Visitor's Center. If you are even driving through Blanding, take a few minutes for this stop. Unlike most centers, this one had several exhibit rooms with really interesting early western exhibits. There was a music room, where a DVD was playing of The Piano Guys, a group from Utah who play incredible music. You can learn more at their website, http://thepianoguys.com/, and listen to some of their music. 

Still at the Visitor Center, we asked about where to find some authentic Indian jewelry and other hand-made items. Our host recommended two trading posts on the way out of town. With visions of turquoise rings and earrings in my mind, we headed out, but not until we had partaken of a tootsie roll pop from the basket on the counter!

When we found the trading posts, one was a large building that was part of an RV park. The second was an unimposing small brown structure. We chose that one. Inside we met Bob and Joan Hosler, who had built the shop many years ago and had been selling Indian art, jewelry, pottery, rugs, and many other items for a long time. Bob is 1/8 Indian (and proud of it, according to Bob). He had many tales to tell, almost one for each item in his shop.


Mexican Hat's namesake rock
Navajo tacos at San Juan Cafe!
We had been talking only a little while when a tall gentleman walked through the door. Bob introduced him as "Harrison" and said he was a Navaho wood carver. Bob showed us some of Harrison's ceremonial pieces, including a gorgeous large cherry bowl that he had carved and etched with ceremonial designs. We talked with Harrison for quite a while and learned that he collects cast iron pots that he has found back in Tennessee at yard sales. He is looking for pots 9 inches or less in diameter and 7.5 inches tall or less. If you know of any pots like this, let us know! Bob explained that Harrison and his people use these pots to make drums for certain ceremonies. We spent a fascinating hour or two talking with these good folks.

This delayed our getting to Mexican Hat a little, but we did arrive in time for a late lunch. The Navajo tacos are a delightful vegetarian dish of refried beans on Navajo fry bread with cheese, lettuce, and tomato on top. We ordered two, having no idea how large they were. Well, each one covered a dinner plate. And they were delicious!

After lunch we headed for Monument Valley, which fortunately was only a few more miles down the road. We have been amazed at how much the landscape has been changing between all these places we've visited over the last week or so, and today was equally as amazing and different. When we drove through the gate at Monument Valley, Smoky asked the attendant whether our little Prius could make it around their valley road. She said we should be able to make it. We had figured since we didn't really have time for a guided tour, we could at least do a drive through. Some of the "monuments" of rock in the valley were visible from the parking lot of the Navajo hotel, trading post, and restaurant. We headed out quite confidently but quite soon were bumping and rolling over a very rocky road. Sand, potholes, and large rocks don't make for a smooth driving surface. The speed limit is set for 17 MPH. From our experience, that was quite optimistic!

Fortunately the views were amazing, and the late afternoon light made for some lovely photographs. We didn't get too far around the road before we realized that if we didn't turn back, we might still be out there at midnight. Plus, our little Prius keep crying "ouch!" 
Monument Valley with road
Monument Valley
Monument Valley

Since we still had nearly 2 hours drive to Chinle, Arizona, where we are staying at the Sacred Canyon Lodge inside Canyon de Chelly, we had dinner at The View restaurant in Monument Valley. That was a good chance to relax a little after the most exciting drive in the valley.

Now we are settled in for the night at Canyon de Chelly. The atmosphere here is relaxed, quiet, and calm. Tomorrow morning we are taking a jeep tour of the canyon with Oscar Bia, Navajo shaman and medicine man. 

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